Saturday, March 5, 2011

Port Phillip Estate

As you approach in your vehicle you are greeted by a large, curved concrete affair. Think modern art gallery without the art, although some of the wine, particularly the impressive range of Pinot Noirs, does have its merits. The building imparts difference; that is, difference between it and you. Difference between the people who own it and you. You are inferior (unless you own one of these places yourself). The door creates uncertainty but then knows you’re coming and swings outward, requiring you to step hastily backward out of the way, and then assured and relieved of entry you approach the glass sliding doors with growing uncertainty as they remain closed. They think about it long and hard before opening at the last moment, allowing access almost begrudgingly. You walk in and realise why you have been admitted; it is hoped that you spend money. There’s a fancy restaurant to the left which does serve good food (appropriately priced), a bistro to the right as well as the tasting bench. The feel and the views are impressive, giving an elevated, distant and calm setting to look over the vines and dams to Western Port beyond through the large glass walls. The tasting is of the selective type. You select whether to pay $10 for the privilege, and then the employee selects which wines you are worthy of. It’s worth lying that you are from the industry. You may not want to pay for the top wines but at least you’ll get to try them for your ten bucks. Go on a Monday to support your fib. The employee talks about grapes from here and there, flavours to expect etc but it’s rehearsed and you have to infuse some humour to break the boredom. Wine-wise there’s a bit of everything; Sav Blancs, through Pinot Gris to Chardonnay, then the Pinots and Shiraz as well as a Barbera. I found the Charddies okay but not perfect unless you’re allowed to try the Farrago. Certainly there are many equivalents or better on the Peninsula that have greater need of your money. There’s something for everyone within the Pinot range depending on your taste and experience. They're all good. Worth a visit if you can swallow your pride and allow the establishment to be your master. Posh people better suited.

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