Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Red Hill Estate
Another big venue with lovely introductory gardens and what looked like a lovely restaurant which looked over the vines to Western Port beyond. A truly wonderful view. The cellar door is a large, modernised shed with a wall of produce for sale as well as other walls of Art. I thought it was a little higgledy-piggledy, bits of this and bits of that, but what do I know? Wine serving was pleasant and so was the wine. Chardonnays - good, Pinot Noirs - very good. There was an entry level version of each, then a cellar door only version, then the upper versions. I liked the drink now stuff. There was an abundance of Pinot Noirs on offer in boxes at the centre of the shed from different years, different levels and in various combinations. The one on tasting was okay but I wanted to try more. To do so I would've had to spend almost $200 buying a mixed sixpack which was a little frustrating. I'll have to keep an eye on this place and hopefully they do tasting days so I can really get to know and compare their Pinot Noirs, without having to actually buy them all!
Crittenden Estate
I could tell as I was driving up that this was a serious venue with a large carpark. So as usual with these sort of places I was already wondering whether the wines stacked up, how much focus was left on the wines and cellar door and how it would rate as a venue. You have to walk a bit from the car park to the cellar door and although there are vines to look at, it's always nicer if you are forced to walk through pretty gardens, along a cared-for path rather than across a slab of concrete. I know, I'm picky. Anyway, I opened the glass door to the large cellar door and peeked into the restaurant area on my way to the restroom. Looked nice, weeping willow views, nice lawns, that sort of thing. Back to the cellar door I noticed lots of produce on offer and had time to investigate a little and wonder if all these wines with different labels were part of this place's repertoire. And indeed they were. The tasting list had no less than five sections under different labels, all with whites and reds. I was confused. I asked the lady how tastings are done here and she said to pick the ones I liked. I wanted to point out that I don't yet know which ones I like! Since there was no order to them I found this disconcerting and I'm sure the average punter would to. I prefer to be led through the process by the all-knowledgeable counter hand. I didn't want to do any work. I had it explained, as I showed my discomfort, that there's a grown-in-Mornington label (Crittenden Estate), a Spanish grape label (Los Hermanos), an experimental label (Pinocchio), a drink now label (Geppetto) and another label that is from Europe. Well I pointed to this and that and tasted some wine. I probably tried half of what was on offer and this was probably just as well. My favourites were the Tempranillo and the Homenaje a Cataluna (both from the Los Hermanos label). There were others that were good as well but to be honest the whole experience was so confusing that I just left it at these two.
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Seville Hill
Up the road from Whispering Hills, this is another gem of the Seville area of the Yarra Valley. You drive in along the vines and end up on top of a hill with a lovely view of the surrounds. A dedicated, modern cellar door sits up there and you enter ready for a taste of this area's siginificant produce.There is an extensive range; the usual whites and reds but also some interesting exotic varieties. The Sav Blanc was a little different to others and worth another try. The Chardonnays are very good. The Shiraz also. Of the reds I liked the Sangiovese the best, although the Tempranillo was sold out. To be honest I need to go back there to try them all again - there were so many!
Wild Dog Winery
Near the bustling town of Warragul to Melbourne's east is this serious wine and venue establishment. Weddings, parties, musicians, theatre, events - that sort of thing. So it's big and money orientated (nothing wrong with that). The surrounds are gorgeous, as is much of Gippsland, surely one of the most serene landscapes in Victoria. A great place to sit with so much nature and gently sloping farmland around but also the odd establishment like this. The structure is modern, having been built during the last decade. The tasting area is large enough for big groups and even went to the expense of having a special wine pouring machine that controls temperature, humidity, oxidation levels...(and then he lost me). There were so many wines to try here that you have to be careful not too lose your taste buds, along with other things. So many white varieties I had the impression of trying too much. I suppose they're catering to all the various palates that walk throught their doors. I liked the Chardonnay but not overly. I was waiting patiently through all these wines to get to the Shiraz (it has a reputation) and the wait wasn't unpleasant as the gentleman behind the counter was lovely to talk to, although he was distracted by the preparations for a wedding celebration to be held in the evening. But before we got to the Shiraz I was impressed by the Cabernet Franc. Usually used to blend, this was a great stand alone and I'm lookign forward to opening it at home. The the Shiraz and yes, it was very good. Solid, on the heavy, side but with finesse. The reserve Shiraz (their first) was outstanding. After the wines we had lunch and I have to write that we were bitterly disappointed with receiving sub-standard meals, complaining and still paying a small fortune for them.
Mandala Wines
Well this is a large commercial establishment with a posh cellar door at the front and then a fancy eatery down the corridor in the unseen inner sanctum. The place did give off cold, disinterested vibes. Wineries usually do when the waitress from the restaurant has to come running from her duties to serve the wine taster showing all the while the inconvenience and desire to have this over and done with so she can get back to her other duties. So I stood waiting for a while and was disappointed by the lack of engagement but this is a big winery. I didn't get into the whites nor the Shiraz but enjoyed the Pinot Noir and Cab/Merlot very much indeed. Especially the Prophet Pinot Noir which is usually not on tasting but somehow there was an open bottle behind the counter (always ask, and then ask again). So I left with a couple of bottles and went on my merry way.
Dixons Creek Estate
Or as the label also says, "Graeme Miller Wines". It's good not knowing too much about the people, the regions, the particular sites and slopes because then you can just let your taste buds make the decisions. It is clear on arrival that this is a winery in the true sense. It is a very comfortable cellar door but not for huge groups, not too much food stuffs (maybe one bookcase?) no platters, just wine. The effect you get as you walk in is fantastic, thanks to the clever design of the space. The tasting area is in effect an internal balcony area overlooking the barrel shed to one side and the vines outside on the other. It is cool to not only be so close to the barrels but to have an elevated position. I went through the whites, Sav Blanc or Pinto Gris really have to jump out at me to convince a purchase and they didn't but the Chardonnay did. Top quality, good value stuff. But the reds were something else. A clever selection; Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet and Petit Verdot as well as one other I'll mention in a minute. I say clever because not only can these all be successful in these region but it provides the opportunity for blends and in particular the monster blend that is called Quatrain. And this is a monster. A wine of substance and distinction. All sorts of stuff going on for ages and ages and you know it will get better over time. Even though it's not cheap, I still think it's good value. I left with the impression that this guy knows what he's doing and is trying to create something really special year after year.
Friday, March 25, 2011
Yileena Park
On a whim I turned into the driveway to give this one a go. What a lovely setting! The vines are up a hill to the left and you look forward to entering the cellar door structure that is a modern. psuedo-stone affair built into the side of the steepish hill that protects the structure, and the cellar underneath, from the north sun. Upon entering, you walk up stairs to enter a old English sitting room, wood panelled walls, carefully chosen fitttings and fine carpets. Except that it's not old. The tasting counter is well equipped and modern. I had to admit that the overall effect was pleasing and I wanted to order a glass of wine and sit on the balcony to steal a few minutes. But I had to try the wines first. Pitching itself as a premium, boutique winery I was curious to see how far this description would go. As I was beginning to notice in the valley, the reds stood out dramatically. I enjoyed the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon immensely and was overjoyed to find a 2003 reserve Cab/Merlot on tasting. It was exceptional. I quickly put my name down for information on future cellar releases. Good, medium weight, long length reds.
Yering Farm
Accessible from two major roads, the drive in enhances expectations as the dirt road runs along row after row of old vines. A pleasant grassy area out the front would be perfect for a picnic on a nice day. The cellar door is a large space, character-filled being a renovated, original stable. Designed for large groups and indeed a busload turned up while I was there. But don't let this detract you, the wines here are very good, especially the reds. In fact, all the reds; Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cab/Merlot and Cab Sav. Big, rich, thick stuff but with softness, subtelty and flavour. There are three label levels and the middle one represents great value but the premiums are very, very nice. A quality winery that will have at least one more regular visitor!
St Huberts
Along a well trodden path lies this classy cellar door. I knew that the winery had been there a long time so it was easy to imagine the vineyard once remote and quiet but now close to highways and traffic. There is a large patch of grass near the cellar door - I always like to see this as it sometimes helps if you are bringing kids or if you feel that you need a little lie down before you can continue. The cellar door is modern and well equipped, even with a coffee machine. I found the wines on tasting tight, controlled and competent. For a winery this old it was a little disappointing but I suspect that the premium stuff is kept for different company. Still, the Cab Sav was solid and is one for keeping.
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Wild Cattle Creek
I was in need of lunch so stopped here. I like winery restaurant combinations as it allows a tasting before the meal. I usually select my favourite wine, order a glass and then select the best dish that matches the wine. So I came here ready for lunch and immediately smelt the whiff of mainstream tourist spot. Conference lunches, functions, that sort of thing but not of the classiest character. Not bad, just not the real deal. Trying hard though. The building was all newish and substantial but lacked character and soul so that the eyes just tend to gloss over and fireplace, mantle piece, wooden wall panels etc. I waited at the cellar counter for some time before noticing a button or bell (I can't remember which). A man (the winemaker I think) trundled out of a side office, presented a long list of the wines and informed me that not all wines were open for tasting as there were so many on offer and it would be silly to open a $30 bottle just for a tasting or two throughout the day. This was not a good start. But I had some Sav Blanc and this changed things a little. It was fresh, vibrant and flavoursome but without too much complexity. It was quite good and ended up being the wine I purchased for the meal. The Riesling was okay. The rest, quite frankly, were miss-able. Quite disappointing. I was thinking that this is a case of trying too many things in search of an answer rather than knuckling down to the two or three or four that showed the most potential for promising returns. He was happy with the Cab Sav but I was not. Anyway, I had a nice lunch.
Balnarring Winery
This was a good find, open every day. A proper farm and vineyard where you honk your horn to attract attention and someone comes out to greet you. There is not effort to put on a facade here. It's a farm. You walk through a busy, messy office/lab into the large shed fillled with barrels to the roof. The tasting wines are laid out on planks of wood atop barrels. A very intimate experience where the host is with you, tasting as you go, rather than across a bench. There were some very interesting wines here including a dry white muscat which was very fruity and luscious. A grape I'd never heard of, Senza Nome produced a bizarre wine that starts off like a Sav Blanc and finishes like a Riesling. And something called Fruilano. I must admit I'm at the stage of my wine appreciation where I like having these exotic and unusual varieties to try, even if I don't know too much about them. I liked the light, only slightly wooded Chardonnay, which is rare for me - I usually go for the heavily oaked types. I liked both the Balnarring Pinot Noirs, the single clone and the blend for more complexity. And then the sweet stuff. I know that many wineries throw in a Rose or a dessert wine, maybe a late harvest Riesling to appeal to the sweet tooth who doesn't feel comfortable leaving without buying something. But these sweet wines were really good. Really good. Overall a surprisingly unique experience for an off the road tasting, with a large and interesting range of wines. Very enjoyable.
Dromana Estate
A full on winery, restaurant and gardens affair that I didn't fully explore but would like to in the future. You walk through a pretty little garden with benches (for afterward) on the way from the carpark to the establishment. The cellar door is the first room of an old looking house turned restaurant with a lovely feel and character. But I went for the wines, of which there are many. So many that after a tasting you definitely want to sit down on one of those benches outside for a while. There are no less than four labels on offer. Mornington Estate; a very solid drink now label, Dromana Estate; a higher priced Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, "I" Range; a delightfully interesting collection of Italian varieties not rare but not common either and David Traeger; a couple of heavier reds from a winery in the Goulburn Valley. Well, where do I start? Don't dare scoff at the Mornington Estate label. The Chardonnay and Shiraz Viognier are very good (I have fond memories also of the Rose from years ago but it was sold out on this visit) but the others will appeal also depending on your tastes. I like the Dromana Estate Chardonnay but not enough to purchase (I already have a number of Chardies in my wardrobe). Both Pinot Noirs were okay. The "I" range will also appeal to the right palate; I liked the Sangiovese and especially the Nebbiolo (which I bought on my last visit also). The David Traeger Shiraz is a pure delight; heavier but soft, smooth and subtle. All wines are very well priced and definitely offer variety and drinkability to your collection.
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