Friday, August 12, 2011

Seppelt

Massive, massive winery. Towering rows of stainless steel vats act like a colossal proclamation of this place's productive powers. Inside, the cellar door is large and equipped for bus loads. A lot of wines here and it's worth surveying the range for a moment in order to select the varieties and price range most suitable for your tastes. Of course, the Shiraz was a stand out. Do the premium tasting for a fee and try some truly remarkable Shiraz.

Bests

This place is old. Very old. The cellar door/barn tries to reflect this and I couldn't help thinking it was contrived for show but it was probably all genuine. There were lots of wines on show and as usual in this region (as well as Pyrenees, Heathcote and Bendigo) the whites taste okay, nice even, but are then overwhelmed by the reds, specifically Shiraz. However, the Rieslings were excellent. The Pinot Noir was good here and the Pinot Noir Meunier blend is one I like, although I've had better. The Shiraz was good value. Unfortunately, the premium stuff was not available for tasting which is always a downer. I really appreciate wineries that offer the really good stuff for tasting, even if I have to pay a tasting fee and even if this cannot be reimbursed with a purchase. However, I have tasted the Bin 0 Shiraz before at a wine show in Melbourne and it was fantastic. The sweet stuff here is very good also. An assortment of delicious muscats, fortified and tokay await the sweet tooth.

Taltarni

I've seen this label around so was expecting a large establishment and this was certainly the case. Lots of buildings for functions etc. However, we were lucky to be the only ones there which always leads to a more pleasant experience as you have the full attention of the host. There are a lot of wines to try here. The reds were very good of course, including a heady Heathcote Shiraz, and a good value, rich Cabernet. But they all lead to one of the nicest Cabernet-Shiraz blends I've tasted.

Dalwhinnie

A gem. One of those rare wine visits that has everything. As you drive up alongside old, gnarled vines, carefully pruned, you enter a significant ampitheatre of large dimensions and peaceful, remote beauty. The cellar door is modest but bright, overlooking some of the vine covered slopes. The slopes here are gentle and in all directions and must provide a joyous home for fine vines. There were three ranges on offer and regardless of your snobbiness, I encourage you to try to drink now range, as it will impress for what it is. But move on and you know you've come to a special wine place. If you handle it pay the $5 and taste the single estate Shiraz's. They are each distinct and divine (and priced accordingly). I can dream of a day...

Warrenmang

Nice drive off the main roads, this winery boasts lovely views and seclusion. The cellar door is rustic and charming and if you ask about the underground tunnel behind the counter the host may lead you through to the winery and give you a tour. The volumes are big here but the quality is high. The drink now stuff is not totally simple; really pleasant and easy as you'd expect but with a light richness. There are lots of wines produced here but not all were on tasting when we were there. The showcase wines were all lovely. The Grand Pyrenees, a delicate but robust blend shows off the regions reds. The Estate Shiraz is deep and heavy with spice. The Black Puma is an even more premium Shiraz not on tasting and beyond my wallet but reports are good. The Torchia is a blend, not only of varietals but of vintages over ten years. Not on tasting this did tempt me and I'll open on a suitable occassion. Lunches and dinner menus look lovely. A lot to like here.

Summerfield

I'd read good things, recent five star rating and all that, but I could've find a wine I really liked. The site is average, being off site away from the vines on a main road with no views. The Reserves were okay but not even close to worth the price.Wholly unimpressed.

Redbank

Quite a nice site with places to sit outside and in if you need it. They serve delicate tapas of small proportions, nice for a snack but expensive if you need to fill up. The wines were unimpressive until ...Sally's Paddock. I realised then that all the others were produced simply to blend and refine to produce a consistently high quality big red blend. They probably bottle the others individually just to meet the demands of the visitor and of course make some extra cash. But make no mistake, this is a one wine winery. And it's a very, very good wine. I need more to fully understand it. Not cheap, but not ludicrous.

Mount Avoca

What a lovely site to enjoy wine! Food also available and would be a lovely place to sit and watch the day pass. The cellar door is light and comfortable and the host friendly and hospitable. The range has some good whites but the reds are really what you come for. Both the Cabernet and Shiraz are full but with delicacy and offer a good value example of the region. The Reserves of each are naturally more complex and longer and very enjoyable indeed. Some very interesting oddities also, including Frizzante, essentially a lightly alcoholic grape juice you could drink with breakfast and a sparkling Shiraz which wasn't my cup of tea but my wife liked it. There were some other sparklings, a wooded Sav Blanc that was impressive and an excellent Viognier. I'll go back to try the Tempranillo when they have more of it!

Blue Pyrenees

Big, established, high volume place. Lovely buildings and gardens as you walk up to the large cellar door that also sells food on weekends. I was very disappointed with the wine. Having written that, there were lots of sparklings that I didn't try, maybe they were good. There was also an assortment of desserts. This place had the feel of a tourist stop over, maybe some of their premium wine, not available to me and you is good, who knows?

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Red Hill Estate

Another big venue with lovely introductory gardens and what looked like a lovely restaurant which looked over the vines to Western Port beyond. A truly wonderful view. The cellar door is a large, modernised shed with a wall of produce for sale as well as other walls of Art. I thought it was a little higgledy-piggledy, bits of this and bits of that, but what do I know? Wine serving was pleasant and so was the wine. Chardonnays - good, Pinot Noirs - very good. There was an entry level version of each, then a cellar door only version, then the upper versions. I liked the drink now stuff. There was an abundance of Pinot Noirs on offer in boxes at the centre of the shed from different years, different levels and in various combinations. The one on tasting was okay but I wanted to try more. To do so I would've had to spend almost $200 buying a mixed sixpack which was a little frustrating. I'll have to keep an eye on this place and hopefully they do tasting days so I can really get to know and compare their Pinot Noirs, without having to actually buy them all!

Crittenden Estate

I could tell as I was driving up that this was a serious venue with a large carpark. So as usual with these sort of places I was already wondering whether the wines stacked up, how much focus was left on the wines and cellar door and how it would rate as a venue. You have to walk a bit from the car park to the cellar door and although there are vines to look at, it's always nicer if you are forced to walk through pretty gardens, along a cared-for path rather than across a slab of concrete. I know, I'm picky. Anyway, I opened the glass door to the large cellar door and peeked into the restaurant area on my way to the restroom. Looked nice, weeping willow views, nice lawns, that sort of thing. Back to the cellar door I noticed lots of produce on offer and had time to investigate a little and wonder if all these wines with different labels were part of this place's repertoire. And indeed they were. The tasting list had no less than five sections under different labels, all with whites and reds. I was confused. I asked the lady how tastings are done here and she said to pick the ones I liked. I wanted to point out that I don't yet know which ones I like! Since there was no order to them I found this disconcerting and I'm sure the average punter would to. I prefer to be led through the process by the all-knowledgeable counter hand. I didn't want to do any work. I had it explained, as I showed my discomfort, that there's a grown-in-Mornington label (Crittenden Estate), a Spanish grape label (Los Hermanos), an experimental label (Pinocchio), a drink now label (Geppetto) and another label that is from Europe. Well I pointed to this and that and tasted some wine. I probably tried half of what was on offer and this was probably just as well. My favourites were the Tempranillo and the Homenaje a Cataluna (both from the Los Hermanos label). There were others that were good as well but to be honest the whole experience was so confusing that I just left it at these two.

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Seville Hill

Up the road from Whispering Hills, this is another gem of the Seville area of the Yarra Valley. You drive in along the vines and end up on top of a hill with a lovely view of the surrounds. A dedicated, modern cellar door sits up there and you enter ready for a taste of this area's siginificant produce.There is an extensive range; the usual whites and reds but also some interesting exotic varieties. The Sav Blanc was a little different to others and worth another try. The Chardonnays are very good. The Shiraz also. Of the reds I liked the Sangiovese the best, although the Tempranillo was sold out. To be honest I need to go back there to try them all again - there were so many!

Wild Dog Winery

Near the bustling town of Warragul to Melbourne's east is this serious wine and venue establishment. Weddings, parties, musicians, theatre, events - that sort of thing. So it's big and money orientated (nothing wrong with that). The surrounds are gorgeous, as is much of Gippsland, surely one of the most serene landscapes in Victoria. A great place to sit with so much nature and gently sloping farmland around but also the odd establishment like this. The structure is modern, having been built during the last decade. The tasting area is large enough for big groups and even went to the expense of having a special wine pouring machine that controls temperature, humidity, oxidation levels...(and then he lost me). There were so many wines to try here that you have to be careful not too lose your taste buds, along with other things. So many white varieties I had the impression of trying too much. I suppose they're catering to all the various palates that walk throught their doors. I liked the Chardonnay but not overly. I was waiting patiently through all these wines to get to the Shiraz (it has a reputation) and the wait wasn't unpleasant as the gentleman behind the counter was lovely to talk to, although he was distracted by the preparations for a wedding celebration to be held in the evening. But before we got to the Shiraz I was impressed by the Cabernet Franc. Usually used to blend, this was a great stand alone and I'm lookign forward to opening it at home. The the Shiraz and yes, it was very good. Solid, on the heavy, side but with finesse. The reserve Shiraz (their first) was outstanding. After the wines we had lunch and I have to write that we were bitterly disappointed with receiving sub-standard meals, complaining and still paying a small fortune for them.

Mandala Wines

Well this is a large commercial establishment with a posh cellar door at the front and then a fancy eatery down the corridor in the unseen inner sanctum. The place did give off cold, disinterested vibes. Wineries usually do when the waitress from the restaurant has to come running from her duties to serve the wine taster showing all the while the inconvenience and desire to have this over and done with so she can get back to her other duties. So I stood waiting for a while and was disappointed by the lack of engagement but this is a big winery. I didn't get into the whites nor the Shiraz but enjoyed the Pinot Noir and Cab/Merlot very much indeed. Especially the Prophet Pinot Noir which is usually not on tasting but somehow there was an open bottle behind the counter (always ask, and then ask again). So I left with a couple of bottles and went on my merry way.

Dixons Creek Estate

Or as the label also says, "Graeme Miller Wines". It's good not knowing too much about the people, the regions, the particular sites and slopes because then you can just let your taste buds make the decisions. It is clear on arrival that this is a winery in the true sense. It is a very comfortable cellar door but not for huge groups, not too much food stuffs (maybe one bookcase?) no platters, just wine. The effect you get as you walk in is fantastic, thanks to the clever design of the space. The tasting area is in effect an internal balcony area overlooking the barrel shed to one side and the vines outside on the other. It is cool to not only be so close to the barrels but to have an elevated position. I went through the whites, Sav Blanc or Pinto Gris really have to jump out at me to convince a purchase and they didn't but the Chardonnay did. Top quality, good value stuff. But the reds were something else. A clever selection; Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet and Petit Verdot as well as one other I'll mention in a minute. I say clever because not only can these all be successful in these region but it provides the opportunity for blends and in particular the monster blend that is called Quatrain. And this is a monster. A wine of substance and distinction. All sorts of stuff going on for ages and ages and you know it will get better over time. Even though it's not cheap, I still think it's good value. I left with the impression that this guy knows what he's doing and is trying to create something really special year after year.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Yileena Park

On a whim I turned into the driveway to give this one a go. What a lovely setting! The vines are up a hill to the left and you look forward to entering the cellar door structure that is a modern. psuedo-stone affair built into the side of the steepish hill that protects the structure, and the cellar underneath, from the north sun. Upon entering, you walk up stairs to enter a old English sitting room, wood panelled walls, carefully chosen fitttings and fine carpets. Except that it's not old. The tasting counter is well equipped and modern. I had to admit that the overall effect was pleasing and I wanted to order a glass of wine and sit on the balcony to steal a few minutes. But I had to try the wines first. Pitching itself as a premium, boutique winery I was curious to see how far this description would go. As I was beginning to notice in the valley, the reds stood out dramatically. I enjoyed the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon immensely and was overjoyed to find a 2003 reserve Cab/Merlot on tasting. It was exceptional. I quickly put my name down for information on future cellar releases. Good, medium weight, long length reds.

Yering Farm

Accessible from two major roads, the drive in enhances expectations as the dirt road runs along row after row of old vines. A pleasant grassy area out the front would be perfect for a picnic on a nice day. The cellar door is a large space, character-filled being a renovated, original stable. Designed for large groups and indeed a busload turned up while I was there. But don't let this detract you, the wines here are very good, especially the reds. In fact, all the reds; Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cab/Merlot and Cab Sav. Big, rich, thick stuff but with softness, subtelty and flavour. There are three label levels and the middle one represents great value but the premiums are very, very nice. A quality winery that will have at least one more regular visitor!

St Huberts

Along a well trodden path lies this classy cellar door. I knew that the winery had been there a long time so it was easy to imagine the vineyard once remote and quiet but now close to highways and traffic. There is a large patch of grass near the cellar door - I always like to see this as it sometimes helps if you are bringing kids or if you feel that you need a little lie down before you can continue. The cellar door is modern and well equipped, even with a coffee machine. I found the wines on tasting tight, controlled and competent. For a winery this old it was a little disappointing but I suspect that the premium stuff is kept for different company. Still, the Cab Sav was solid and is one for keeping.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Wild Cattle Creek

I was in need of lunch so stopped here. I like winery restaurant combinations as it allows a tasting before the meal. I usually select my favourite wine, order a glass and then select the best dish that matches the wine. So I came here ready for lunch and immediately smelt the whiff of mainstream tourist spot. Conference lunches, functions, that sort of thing but not of the classiest character. Not bad, just not the real deal. Trying hard though. The building was all newish and substantial but lacked character and soul so that the eyes just tend to gloss over and fireplace, mantle piece, wooden wall panels etc. I waited at the cellar counter for some time before noticing a button or bell (I can't remember which). A man (the winemaker I think) trundled out of a side office, presented a long list of the wines and informed me that not all wines were open for tasting as there were so many on offer and it would be silly to open a $30 bottle just for a tasting or two throughout the day. This was not a good start. But I had some Sav Blanc and this changed things a little. It was fresh, vibrant and flavoursome but without too much complexity. It was quite good and ended up being the wine I purchased for the meal. The Riesling was okay. The rest, quite frankly, were miss-able. Quite disappointing. I was thinking that this is a case of trying too many things in search of an answer rather than knuckling down to the two or three or four that showed the most potential for promising returns. He was happy with the Cab Sav but I was not. Anyway, I had a nice lunch.

Balnarring Winery

This was a good find, open every day. A proper farm and vineyard where you honk your horn to attract attention and someone comes out to greet you. There is not effort to put on a facade here. It's a farm. You walk through a busy, messy office/lab into the large shed fillled with barrels to the roof. The tasting wines are laid out on planks of wood atop barrels. A very intimate experience where the host is with you, tasting as you go, rather than across a bench. There were some very interesting wines here including a dry white muscat which was very fruity and luscious. A grape I'd never heard of, Senza Nome produced a bizarre wine that starts off like a Sav Blanc and finishes like a Riesling. And something called Fruilano. I must admit I'm at the stage of my wine appreciation where I like having these exotic and unusual varieties to try, even if I don't know too much about them. I liked the light, only slightly wooded Chardonnay, which is rare for me - I usually go for the heavily oaked types. I liked both the Balnarring Pinot Noirs, the single clone and the blend for more complexity. And then the sweet stuff. I know that many wineries throw in a Rose or a dessert wine, maybe a late harvest Riesling to appeal to the sweet tooth who doesn't feel comfortable leaving without buying something. But these sweet wines were really good. Really good. Overall a surprisingly unique experience for an off the road tasting, with a large and interesting range of wines. Very enjoyable.

Dromana Estate

A full on winery, restaurant and gardens affair that I didn't fully explore but would like to in the future. You walk through a pretty little garden with benches (for afterward) on the way from the carpark to the establishment. The cellar door is the first room of an old looking house turned restaurant with a lovely feel and character.  But I went for the wines, of which there are many. So many that after a tasting you definitely want to sit down on one of those benches outside for a while. There are no less than four labels on offer. Mornington Estate; a very solid drink now label, Dromana Estate; a higher priced Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, "I" Range; a delightfully interesting collection of Italian varieties not rare but not common either and David Traeger; a couple of heavier reds from a winery in the Goulburn Valley. Well, where do I start? Don't dare scoff at the Mornington Estate label. The Chardonnay and Shiraz Viognier are very good (I have fond memories also of the Rose from years ago but it was sold out on this visit) but the others will appeal also depending on your tastes. I like the Dromana Estate Chardonnay but not enough to purchase (I already have a number of Chardies in my wardrobe). Both Pinot Noirs were okay. The "I" range will also appeal to the right palate; I liked the Sangiovese and especially the Nebbiolo (which I bought on my last visit also). The David Traeger Shiraz is a pure delight; heavier but soft, smooth and subtle. All wines are very well priced and definitely offer variety and drinkability to your collection.

Whispering Hills

Heading north out of Melbourne toward the Yarra Valley wine region you will see a turn off to the east (right) heading toward Warburton. If you decide to take this route you are deciding to miss the old, established, reknowned wineries of the Yarra Valley and go exploring a little. But you will find some gems down this road and Whispering Hills is one of them. Small, raggerdy exterior but with a comfortable cellar door displaying cheeses and other food stuffs also. The chap behind (or sometimes in front) of the counter loves talking about his wines, his vineyards and equally loves hearing how much you like his wine. Which I do. A good solid range of whites and reds, reasonably priced, with one notable exception which I'll get to in a moment. I liked the Riesling and the Chardonnay even more; I usually can't help purchasing at least one of these. But the reds is where it happens at this place. The Cab Sav is perhaps the best value Cab Sav in the valley for drinking now or down the track. The Bendigo Shiraz is also good but the standout, when it's available, is the exceptional Appassimento. Made from Cabernets in this case but with a production method that involves drying the grapes to drop the weight by about a third and therefore concentrate the sugars and other flavours. It sounds like it may be syruppy but it isn't. Luscious is the best descriptor I can think of. Only one vintage produced so far, 2005, but the result was amazing. One of my favourite wines. Thankfully my brother discovered it before one of the critics and we managed to purchase a few bottles before the price went though the roof. Nevertheless I await the next release.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Merricks Estate

This was a pleasant experience. Genuine article here, boxes of wine as you walk in the barn that acts as the cellar door. You fell that you are on a real farm. Get on with your tasting, select your wines, pay and move on. Not that the host won’t start talking if you are interested. Only four wines on offer but rippers they are. Already aged and reasonably priced, it would be hard to go past this little selection for the combination of value and quality. The Cab Sav is a delightful cool climate type, which, despite an obvious love for the more popular Cab Sav regions, I quite like. I’ve come across a few good cool climate Cab Savs now, in Tasmania and on the Peninsula and although they are definitely not a replacement for the traditional heavy red, I like to keep a few, treating them almost like a different grape, certainly a different style. They make for an interesting flavour to savour on their own or to join with light savoury foods, home cooked pies for instance or a meaty salad. The Shiraz is simply stunning. That rare combination of strength with finesse, multiplicity of distinct flavours flowing beautifully together with great length. Subtle but long and strong. A beauty. And the Chardonnay is another one to take home and drink. Often. These wines have been aged so are ready to drink. Don’t store them, drink them. The Pinot Noir didn’t grab me when I was there but it wouldn’t surprise me in the least if it did during a future vintage. I hope this winery keeps going for a long time so I can pluck its produce to add to the backbone of my home cupboard collection for many years to come.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Cannibal Creek

A real farm atmosphere just off the highway not far out of Melbourne and well worth the visit. Gippsland tends to display a more genuinely rural feel than Mornington Peninsula or Yarra Valley with native bush always within a few metres and distant views looking out to more. The downside is that wineries and other places to visit are disparate and travel distances large but this makes for a nice day out if you like greater seclusion. You feel as if you've really gotten away from the buzz of the city. Into the cellar door and the enthusiastic owner shows off her range with the wine vats clearly in view. And the range is good. A light and lovely Sav Blanc that varies year to year and a reasonably well balanced Chardonnay. There are three reds; Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cab Sav and surprisingly the Merlot is the heaviest and an excellent example of this often unpleasant, or at least unexciting grape. The other two are good too with the Cab Sav showing distinct cool climate qualities if you like that sort of thing and the Pinot of medium weight and length. You'll feel happy when you leave and walk back out into nature. Bunyip State Forest is a little further up the road if you feel like a walk or a lie down in the grass.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Darling Park

Homely little cellar door down the road from Port Phillip. Lounge suit, coffee table, kids toys and fireplace – you’d think you were visiting old friends. Cosy, warm and welcoming. A couple of poodles scamper around while you get your bearings and settle in for the tasting, which, I have to say, was rather surprising. The sparkling was enjoyable but the Pinot Gris was one the best, if not the best I’ve had on the Peninsula. Fine length with distinct flavour and a sweetish finish. The Chardonnays were also very good. Pinot Gris – Viognior was an interesting and pleasant blend and along with the Pinot Gris, the Rose was a standout. Rose lightness and freshness but lengthy and complex. The friendly banter across the counter was lovely. I will go back here when I need some more Gris and Rose which both offer something different for the odd meal when the usual whites aren’t quite right.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Port Phillip Estate

As you approach in your vehicle you are greeted by a large, curved concrete affair. Think modern art gallery without the art, although some of the wine, particularly the impressive range of Pinot Noirs, does have its merits. The building imparts difference; that is, difference between it and you. Difference between the people who own it and you. You are inferior (unless you own one of these places yourself). The door creates uncertainty but then knows you’re coming and swings outward, requiring you to step hastily backward out of the way, and then assured and relieved of entry you approach the glass sliding doors with growing uncertainty as they remain closed. They think about it long and hard before opening at the last moment, allowing access almost begrudgingly. You walk in and realise why you have been admitted; it is hoped that you spend money. There’s a fancy restaurant to the left which does serve good food (appropriately priced), a bistro to the right as well as the tasting bench. The feel and the views are impressive, giving an elevated, distant and calm setting to look over the vines and dams to Western Port beyond through the large glass walls. The tasting is of the selective type. You select whether to pay $10 for the privilege, and then the employee selects which wines you are worthy of. It’s worth lying that you are from the industry. You may not want to pay for the top wines but at least you’ll get to try them for your ten bucks. Go on a Monday to support your fib. The employee talks about grapes from here and there, flavours to expect etc but it’s rehearsed and you have to infuse some humour to break the boredom. Wine-wise there’s a bit of everything; Sav Blancs, through Pinot Gris to Chardonnay, then the Pinots and Shiraz as well as a Barbera. I found the Charddies okay but not perfect unless you’re allowed to try the Farrago. Certainly there are many equivalents or better on the Peninsula that have greater need of your money. There’s something for everyone within the Pinot range depending on your taste and experience. They're all good. Worth a visit if you can swallow your pride and allow the establishment to be your master. Posh people better suited.